Butt Mullins is a deceptively large restaurant located on the Dublin side of Naas town, next to Lawlor’s Hotel. There is ample parking in the square out front and it is adjacent to numerous bars, in which you can enjoy a pre or post meal drink. We decided to sample the early bird menu (3 courses for €17.95) a couple of weeks ago. It was the night before heading off on holiday and nobody was in the humour for cooking.
Upon entering the restaurant we were welcomed by the friendly host and shown to our seats towards the front of the restaurant, close to the bar. The menu is quite impressive considering the price and I’ve no doubts that most people’s needs are catered for. For starter I decided to try the “deep fried brie with red onion marmalade and tossed leaves.” It arrived exactly as described and was a pleasant dish. The brie lacked salt to bring out a bit more of its delicate flavour but I thoroughly enjoyed the marmalade and the leaves were fresh and flavourful. A solid start.
The solidity continued into the main. “Butts house burger with onion ring, french fries and a topping of garlic mayo, cheese or bacon.” It was a generous sized burger and the flavours melded together well. Again I felt that it lacked a bit of seasoning but I was happy that the meat retained plenty of moisture. Another solid dish.
For dessert I took the simple option; “selection of ice-cream.” It was nice if a little bland but was a fine end to a very filling meal. The espresso was a little mild for my liking however.
The service was friendly but possibly a little too formal. I was surprised that when my mother requested chips instead of the potatoes and vegetables with her main she was told that they don’t do substitutions. I understand this stance when it comes to something that is cooked into a dish but surely this should have been catered for.
Butt Mullins is a warm and cosy restaurant with plenty of chatter and laughter from surrounding tables. It is a lovely atmosphere in which to enjoy a meal. It is also fantastic value for money. The portions are generous and the food is wholesome. It may not be spectacular but what can one expect for €17.95 for 3 courses?